First off, I carefully soldered six wires to the existing connection points on the back of the bike computer PCB. Two wires (purple and brown) for the magnet sensor, two wires (blue and green) for the reset button, and two wires (black and red) for connecting to the battery.
Now, electrical connections on a skateboard have to be quite robust since even riding on normal tarmac road the board is subject to a lot of vibrations. This is where UniBond 100% power glue comes in. After doing a quick electrical test with a multimeter to confirm good solder contact for the wires and that I had not introduced any shorts, I put a big dollop of UniBond glue on the back of the PCB. I made sure that all the wires were submerged in this glue. After 24 hours the result was a layer of resin (couple of mm thick) on the back of the PCB securing all the wires.
The next step was to source an enclosure for housing the battery, reset button and magnet sensor connections.This was a generic off-the-shell small plastic box available from an electronic component supplier. Once the box was delivered I was then able to cut a piece of vero-board to fit within the box and populate it with a battery holder, reset switch and screw terminal PCB connectors.I made wire connections from the switch and battery to the terminal block connectors. I also fitted a rubber cable sleeve to the side of the box in order to reduce any strain on the bike computer cable and magnet sensor cable feeding into this box.
From the bike computer newly soldered in cable, I wired in the black and red wires for the battery, the green and blue wires for the switch. I took the existing magnet sensor cable and wired that to the brown and purple wires of the cable.
Hey presto, I had a working bike computer. Each time I waved a magnet near the magnet sensor the LCD screen showed a "cycling" graphic.Moving the magnet close and far way in quick succession resulted in the mph reading changing!
Its time to mount all on the board!
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